One question arises on Dorothee Schumacher Resort 2020 collection after reading some online articles from past years about the designer. It is a matter of femininity which has become the recurring point of her interviews. Being a consistent proponent of feminine expression within the context of “arguing” the masculine-oriented ideals in the life of working women – as she observed it in her home country Germany – this Resort range nevertheless displays much boyish feeling.
Turtleneck, piped trousers, and long coat in dark canary yellow, dark orange, and dark maroon; sporty dark blue-navy jersey with zip neck; street-infused jacket in white and cream are presented alongside long dresses, wrapped top, wide skirt, pleated skirt, and mini skirt. At least, there are two possible reasons for this. First, through about 30 years of her career since 1989, she might come to a new point of view in interpreting femininity which could involve a deeper understanding that being feminine is not restrictively about looking womanly in the surface, yet a matter of life vision, approach, and attitude radiating even in boyish style.
Another possibility is that she might be entering a post-femininity phase in which the issue is no longer upon looking feminine and masculine but on how a woman could stand out in any personality she has. The colour palette of this collection loudly speaks about bold presence; be it silver long dress or printed top. This boldness is embodied through contemporary aesthetic by which a little bit of this and that could be found, from a playful retro feeling to the futuristic princess to the style-savvy career woman.
Pics: Kira Bunse / Courtesy of Dorothee Schumacher